I’ve always wanted an easy and affordable magnetic connector for the dome to body connection. I’ve used the DB25 connector with FlthyMcNsty’s board since the beginning and it works great, but it takes two hands to make the connection.
Here is version 2 of the magnetic connector that I’ve designed. It uses conductive magnets for the voltage and then a 8 pin millmax connector for the data. This mirrors the high current board I previously used. Basically 4 wire for the slipring carry each leg of V+/V- times two as I run 5V and 12V to the dome, and the 8 remaining wires carry data. Each wire is rated at 2A, so that gives a max of 8A per power leg, each magnet is rated at 8A, but I doubled up just to be safe. So 2 magnets per power leg.
Here is a list of parts, again this is NOT perfect and will take some builder experience to get it working. If I have time I may fix the things to make it easier to put together, but mine works so it won’t be a high priority. Warning – the millmax connectors are tiny and difficult to solder as they are brass pins that heat up great but also melt their own housings. Tried the solder verisons of them and just melted them all the heck. So went with the pin mounts and provided a separate pcb board, much easier to solder these. SO USE AT YOUR OWN RISK.
Finally got tired of the single caster in the center foot. My droid is styrene (Dave Everett’s plans) so it weighs just 89 lbs. Its been a solid droid for the last two+ years. However, you can see in the video it does not do well on cracks/lips so door transistions, sidewalks,etc are a nightmare. Decide to go with the vex setup using Kevin Holme’s bracket, added additional brackets so that its all metal from the center ankle bolt down. Then used Michael Baddeley’s center… foot 3D model, and modified it to fit my custom setup using Fusion360. The new center foot adds 3.5 lbs so now it weighs 92.5 lbs.
Printed the foot at 15% infill / 4 layers / 0.25 layer height, and then printed the sides at 15% infill / 4 layers / 0.1 layer height to smooth out the curves of the half moons. The left side is glued on, the right side is held on by magnets (mounted in the insets). The foot is solid!
There is access to the bolt to install/remove the bolt (and its large enough for a socket to fit over the bolt head), plus there is a hole for a screw to lock the ankle/foot, it also includes a slot for a washer and the nut.
The video shows the clear difference between the two. Now just need to prime/sand/paint and it will be show time! Also thanks to Greg Tracy for the huge assist on my build in the first place.
So I fell into the R2 Builder sarlacc pit – which is when you complete R2, you have this incessant need to upgrade. When I was out at events, it was cool having R2, but other than movement and sounds it didn’t do much else.
So I’ve decide to work on a ‘Dome 2.0’ which will have all the panels open/close. Originally was looking at integrating some of the code from BigHappyDude but then came Vint32 who integrated the Marcduino boards into the Shadow system. Now I’ll be able to have all the dome panels open and have sequences with very little work on my part. Having R2 controls on an iPod/iPhone was never my thing, but Vint32s integration doesn’t require that part of the marcduino setup, although you could add it if you wanted both.
Its absolutely amazing the creativity and the talent found in the R2 Builders group! Special thanks to Vint32 and BlackSnake for tolerating the emails and sharing all the work they’ve done to integrate the Marcduino into the Shadow system. Thanks to Knightshade for the initial Shadow system and thanks to CuriousMarc for all the work on the marcduino system.
I just finished an event at the Washington Nationals Star Wars day, this is my sixth event with the SHADOW system but definitely the largest attended event. I was wondering how the bluetooth connection of the controller and any interference from the numerous cellphones would affect the system.
Everything worked perfectly without any issues! The system was rock solid and very stealthy. Many many times the parents were looking around for who was controlling R2 and they hardly ever found me.
Thanks again to Knightshade for all the work he put into developing the system. I’d also like to thank Vint32 on the Astromech forum for the code to eliminate the ‘dome twitch’ when two controllers were connected, I’ve had zero twitches since the new code was added.
Several members of the 501st even complementing me on how hidden the controllers were and how that added to the experience.
R2 even made the Washington Nationals Facebook page! Can you find person controlling R2?
I decided to upgrade the control system to the SHADOW system which uses the Sony Playstation 3 Move wand controllers. These are very easy to hide and have a ton of buttons and options.
One of my favorite features is using the ‘L2’ trigger as a throttle for R2. Instead of simply switching between low speed and high speed, you can ramp R2 up by pulling the trigger and it works like a gas pedal. The more you pull the faster R2 goes. This has worked great in numerous occasions.
Thanks to Knightshade on the Astromech forums for all the time and effort to develop this system.
Ran into a problem with the Banebot wheel/hubs on the jaycar motors. No matter what I tried the hubs would eventually slip on the drive shaft. The drive shafts of the jaycars are keyed, but the banebot hubs are not and require a set screw. I tried dimpling the set screw, using loc-tite, etc with no success. Eventually the hub would come loose and slip.
I decided to go with DFRobot wheels (KIT0044) which came with a keyed hub, so I ordered 4 thinking I’d use 2 wheels and have 2 spares. Turns out I ordered 4 sets of 2 wheels. Cost for two wheels and hubs was $39 with shipping.
Got the wheels and used some of the free time over the holidays to install them. Since these wheels are slightly larger than the banebots, I had to remove about 1/8″ on either side for clearance, but since its styrene it didn’t take too long. Here are pictures of the before/after:
The worse part of the hub slipping was the hub would then get stuck on the shaft. I would remove the set screw and still could not get the hub off the drive shaft. Which in turn meant I could not remove the motor from the mount plate. Thankfully my friend Greg cut me two more sets of mount plates and I purchased two new jaycar motors. Now I have spares! Here is the destructive testing I did to remove one of the hubs, still have one more to go.
Seeing that R2 doesn’t fit into the back of my Traverse, I needed a way to transport him laying down. Borrowing heavily from Mr. Sparkle’s R2.0 skid design, I built my own skid that allows me to finally take R2 somewhere without having to bum a ride from Izzy. I need to add handholds and sand/paint the skid but here is pictures of it so far. I plan to use weatherstripping to cushion the edges that R2 rests on. Here is the link on Astromech.net http://astromech.net/forums/gallery2.php?g2_itemId=56983
Had a problem with the shoulder hubs falling out as they were only held in by friction. Decided to JB Weld a piece of 1/4″ threaded rod to the back of each, I drilled a 1/4″ deep hole in the back center of each hub to help hold the threaded rod. Once the JB Weld dried, I inserted the hubs into the legs and used a strap strip of styrene (drilled a 1/4″ hole), a washer and a wing nut to hold it all in place. Definitely not going to fall out this time.