Didn’t someone say the last 10% takes 90% of the time, that’s how I feel as I am now working on the details.
Izzy ordered a skirt for me as the styrene plans were awfully intimidating. I didn’t like the hollow feel of the skirt so I put in the door/window expandable foam (it doesn’t exert pressure when expanding). It worked great, but it sucks up water. So if you wash your R2 body, like I did before painting it, make sure you don’t get water in skirt or it will take days to dry – trust me — days!
My resin parts came in from Brenda/Calvin and I’ve been cleaning, sanding and painting them over the past few weeks. Here is the cylinder details on the center ankle. Looks great, although when I masked off the silver to paint the blue, the silver painted dulled a bit. I ‘polished’ it with fine steel wool and really like the look. The grooves on the cylinders are still the shiny silver and the rest is more like a brushed finish.
Now that the inner skin is on, I again could not resist putting R2 together. Did this after work, four of my neighbors stopped by and a few honked as they drove by.
You’ll notice I haven’t done anything on the dome……
For the Main Ankles I’m using a 3/8″ threaded bolt, 2″ in length with a steel sleeve for the connection between the main ankle and foot, I didn’t want the bolt threads wearing away the styrene. The bolt has a 9/16″ head which I’ve marked for easy of finding the right tool in the future. I glued the washer onto the styrene facing the battery box, but there is not enough clearance for the nut and washer on the outside face. I’ve drilled a hole in the battery box to allow access for the bolt to be inserted and access to the hardware from that side. It is tight on the outside so getting the nut on the bolt is tricky until it starts getting threaded.
Here is a picture of the bolt/nut installed, notice the 9/16″ again on the inside so I get the right wrench the first time.
I’m going to be using the Jaycar motors ($40/each + $25 shipped) for both feet and the dome as recommended by Dave. I bought a 7mm/8mm ratchet wrench from Sears for $7. It works extremely well for attaching the motor support plate to the foot.
I ordered the wheels (T80P-493BG-HS6) and hubs (T80H-SM61) from BaneBots for $37 shipped.
Looks like I’ll be going with SAE bolts for the ankle/foot hardware since larger metric bolts are as easy to find at Home Depot or Lowes. I also didn’t like the ide of threading the bolts into the styrene so am going to use a bolt all the way through with a metal sleeve to prevent the bolt threads from wearing on the styrene directly.
I’m using a 3/8″ threaded bolt, 2″ in length with a steel sleeve for the connection between the center ankle and foot. I’ve recessed the washers and glued them in place on both the bolt and the nut side to give more metal bearing on the styrene. Since the area is too tight, I cut out the left side panel to allow access to the hardware, it reattaches with rare earth magnets I bought at Amazon.
Center ankle hardware
For the caster, I found a 3″ Waxman rubber caster at Lowes. Wheel diameter is 3″ and the mounting height is just under 3-1/2″. LINK
I had to make my own ‘wrench’ out of styrene since there was not enough clearance for a regular wrench.
Center Ankle hardware: $7
I ordered the following resin parts, these will be painted so went with Calvin (aka Brenda) on the Astromech.net forums
Large data port
Resin parts: $142
Ordered the following resin parts today.
Under Shoulder Details
Wayne uses aluminum particles in his pieces so they look like aluminum, decided to go this route for the silver parts instead of using Rub-n-Buff that Izzy keeps saying is easy to use…….we’ll see.
Resin parts: $267
Working on both main ankles, its a lot of styrene laminated together. These things are beefy for being plastic. One issue that did arise is that the 3mm styrene we have is actually 0.125″ thick (SAE), so there is a 0.007″ difference. You won’t notice this until you laminate several pieces together. The main ankle piece that goes into the foot will be slightly wider. The ankles are 8 pieces laminated together so that 0.007″ becomes 0.05″ inches, if I was doing it again, I’d make one of the MAO pieces 0.08″ (2mm equivalent), then the difference would only be 0.01″.
For the record here is the conversion from Metric to US sheets we used
3mm = 0.125″
2mm = 0.08″
This small gap is another result of the slight difference, but since it gets skinned I’m not going to fill it in.
In keeping with my box method keeping stuff sorted