Had a problem with the shoulder hubs falling out as they were only held in by friction. Decided to JB Weld a piece of 1/4″ threaded rod to the back of each, I drilled a 1/4″ deep hole in the back center of each hub to help hold the threaded rod. Once the JB Weld dried, I inserted the hubs into the legs and used a strap strip of styrene (drilled a 1/4″ hole), a washer and a wing nut to hold it all in place. Definitely not going to fall out this time.
Cost: $x for 1/4″ threaded rod and wing nuts
As stated earlier, the horseshoes didn’t sit flat on the legs so I needed to sand them down. I also decided to glue them on the legs instead of using screws or other fasteners. I installed my horseshoes as seen in ROTJ, shoulder buttons to the rear.
One issue I did encounter when gluing on the shim, somehow it rode up and was almost even with the horseshoe edge. So I ended up applying another layer of 0.5MM skin on top of the horseshoe and sanded down the edges. You wouldn’t even notice unless you measured, that’s what is nice about working with styrene. The glue actually fuses the parts together and when you sand it down the seam disappears. Now I have the right gap for the shim. The other one glued on fine, so not sure what happened with the first one.
I used Con-Tact brand Metal FX Stainless Steel self-adhesive for both the shoulder hubs and the shims. Bought it at Lowes for $12. I was skeptical but it turned out great.
I installed the wires that run from the top of the leg down to the foot motors. I’m using Anderson connectors from PowerWerx.com to make the connections between wires.
Shelf liner: $12
Now that the inner skin is on, I again could not resist putting R2 together. Did this after work, four of my neighbors stopped by and a few honked as they drove by.
You’ll notice I haven’t done anything on the dome……
Started on the horseshoes, and again the size difference is causing a slight issue that I’ll need to adjust for, there are 5 pieces stacked together which means there is a 0.035″ difference as seen in this picture. Going to add a 1mm filler so the side pieces and box backs match up with the height of the ring sections.
Slight height difference
Graphical representation of the difference between metric and SAE sheet thicknesses on the horseshoes
1mm filler other side
Scrap filler supports
I think Greg was trying to reinforce my reading the directions. Turned out I had an extra sheet of ring sections. The directions say ‘Continuing adding sections until you run out of inner sections’, fortunately I looked at the picture and instead of stacking all the pieces I had, I saw there are 3 inner and 2 outer ring sections. I had enough pieces for four horseshoes, glad I realized.
Extra horseshoe pieces
UPDATE: I found out later that my horseshoes were not perfectly flat, so they didn’t lay right on the legs. I think the 1mm filler was too much causing the back plate to bow ever so slightly. Another one of those mistakes, but a little sanding fixed it.
Ordered the following resin parts today.
Under Shoulder Details
Wayne uses aluminum particles in his pieces so they look like aluminum, decided to go this route for the silver parts instead of using Rub-n-Buff that Izzy keeps saying is easy to use…….we’ll see.
Resin parts: $267
Back to working on the legs and realized I didn’t read the instructions fully. In my haste I glued all the pieces, including LLE which I wasn’t supposed to glue until after you glue on the top piece. This is a critical step since you need to have access to the cross pieces to glue to the top piece,
To adjust for my error, I decide to add guides to the top piece so that it would fit onto the leg. I used two pieces of scrap styrene to make a jig to ensure the guides were offset from the edge of the legs correctly. The one piece of strap is higher so that I could access the guide edge for gluing.
Jig out of scrap
Here is a picture of the top pieces with the guides installed
Since now I’m reading ahead in the instructions I see that the main ankles screw into the legs with four screws. I thought about installed nuts and washers but decided to follow the instructions but added a piece of 2mm to the inside of the leg so that the bolts had more material to attach too. Again, this may be over-engineering it, but better safe than sorry.
Extra 2mm for ankle bolts
Ready to be glued together. This is where it got tricky since I had glued in the LLE pieces. I ended up gluing the top shoulder section, and then after about two hours I lifted up the top piece on the vertical part and being able to get glue in at each horizontal piece. The guides helped to keep the pieces aligned, but also provided additional bonding surface for the legs. Hope they hold up <fingers crossed>
Tip: Read all the instructions first
Started on the legs, lots of pieces because these are going to carry a lot of the weight of R2. Again since I don’t have a magnet table I just held the pieces in place as close to square as possible unit the glue set. The glue sets quickly so it doesn’t take long. Deburring and lightly sanding the edges of the pieces takes longer, but I’m not complaining since handcutting the pieces would be very time consuming. So thankful that Greg has his CNC machine, need to buy him a beer or something the next time I see him!
I had to figure out what exact size of conduit to use, some use metal, some use PVC some even have used towel bars. I went with a 1/2″ CPVC conduit since I had a 1/2″ bit and the outer diameter of the CPVC was 1/2″. The IPS 3 doesn’t bond to the CPVC so I used regular PVC glue which bonded to both the CPVC and styrene, plus I had it on hand. Cost of the CPVC was $4.
Trying to take more pictures as progress goes along, but sometimes I’m just in a groove.
The instructions say the angled pieces are structurally important, as an engineer of course I over did it, but better safe than sorry. Ended up hacking the extra pieces to make the hub fit.
Test fit with Izzys hub
Decide to leave 1/2″ stick out
While test fitting the underarm boxes I noticed the score lines and the pieces didn’t fit correctly. I may have scored them in the wrong place so I cheated the box so that its a little shallower than the marks and the pieces aligned. After gluing them, I found out a deeper box may have been a better idea. Oh, well maybe on the next droid
Test fit everything
PVC Pipe: $4
Received a lot of styrene sheets and parts from Greg. To help keep things organized I’ve developed a system of cardboard boxes to keep everything together.
Spent the long weekend working on the shoulder hubs and center ankles. Here are pictures of the near completed items, unfortunately I was too excited about having some free time that I didn’t take progress photos.
I decided to buy a laminate trimming bit for my rotozip to cut the 1mm skin flush. Worked like a charm, but you need to practice and turn down the speed so that you don’t melt the styrene. Cost was $20. Also purchased the Loctite for the bolts in the shoulder hubs for $7.
Tip: Make sure you mark the left and right hubs as they are different.
Laminate Trimmer: $20